After these two modifications are done, I then found you could then hand press and twist the driver on the axle by hand (make sure the surfaces are clean of lubricant) till they fit perfectly tight.  (You can use a rubbing compound to assist in this process.)

The combination of these two modifications results in a very secure driver on the axle.

Note: That in order to get the screws out of the axles WITHOUT snapping them off in the axle is to use a blow torch to heat the tip of a Philips head screwdriver very hot then use.  The heat will soften the loctite to allow the screw to back out.  It is VERY easy to snap the screws off. 

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09/06/2008

Drivers out of quarter fix: rework connecting rod holes:

Another issue I've found with most Mallets I've seen is individual drivers being out of quarter causing driveline binds.  This leads to erratic running performance and eventually the strain can break a driver loose on the axle causing it to spin.  The fix can include trying to re-adjust the driver on the axle but this can involve a bit of time and effort to get re-secured back on the axle properly... and even still you are still likely to have a tad bit of resistance.  One fairly quick and easy way to address this problem is to simply oval out the holes (with a dremel) in the connecting rods to allow more play in the driver pins.  Because the drivers are all powered via internal drive gear blocks and  flywheels, opening up the rod holes does not negatively impact the running characteristics at all. 

Here is an example video of a new Mallet with driveline binding because of out of quarter drivers.  In this video I'm trying to start the engine by slowly applying track power... it should start moving slowly but it goes from stopped to moving at a good clip quickly.

=============================================================================================

Note: if the video skips, right click on the link and select "save target as" and save it to your local drive, then play it.

                                              Select the version / quality you want to download:

        - Video #1 - 3:48 mins  -  <Allegheny sound file> Demo video of completed DCS install

                       -  87MB/3000kbs   -  30MB/1000kbs - 11MB/400kbs

==============================================================================================

A more refined way to tell if your drive line has binding is to tip the engine on it's side and run the drivers around slowly and stop in many positions per revolution.  Check and wiggle the each section of the rod assembly, you should have some play in the rods in all positions and in all sections.  If you don't you may need to open the holes up a bit.  Another test is with the engine still on it's side and watch the rods as they complete each revolution.  If you see certain joints push up, you either have a loose driver on the axle or a driver out of quarter situation.

It should be noted that on my 3 Mallets I spent many hours reworking my drivers and axles so they were properly secured to the axle and were quartered right.  Even still, I had to go back and open up the rod holes on some of my Mallet engine sets. 

Here is an example of how far out of quarter this driver is:

 

 

With some ovaling out of the hole you can allow for the driver being out of position in both positions as it completes a full revolution:

 

 

You can't really see the additional opening in most cases and if it does show you have to really look close to see it.  I used a dremel with a small drill bit on the end to do the work.  It's relatively quick and easy and after spending so many hours reworking drivers and trying to get them quartered right, this will be my new method of resolving binding issues. 

 

 

 

Note:  Here are the socket sizes need to remove the rod screws:

 

 

**  NOTE: When trying to remove the rod screws, (especially the smaller 4mm screw head) if you encounter too much resistance they may have Loc-tite on the threads.  Use a soldering iron to heat the screw head up to soften the Loc-tite, then try to remove.  You can break the screw-head off in the driver if you aren't careful.  **

 

 

 

 

**** NOTE:  Running an engine that has driveline binding to "Break it in" WILL NOT properly resolve the issue and will if anything lead to a spun driver.  The only way the binding can go away is for you to correctly adjust the driver by loosening the screw (see other write-up sections for more info) or by working the rod holes as I've noted.  If the driver gives and turns on the axle as a result of the driveline binding, you will most likely have a problem at some point with that driver coming completely loose on the axle and locking the entire drive train.  So in other words, if you have binding, DON'T RUN IT.  Fix it first!!!  ****

 

 

 

Also, once you eliminate All binding from the rods you should be providing added insurance that you will be much less likely to have a driver spin on the axle in the future.

 

 

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09/06/2008

Rod pins impacting main rod as engine runs: (unexplained 'clinking' sound)

This is another issue I found when running this engine was that the motor block has too much side to side play on the axles.  This results in, among other things, the engine to make a metal 'clinking' sound as it runs around the track.  What I found was the cause was the #2 or #3 driver rod pin (don't remember which) impacting the main rod as the engine ran.  This is a big risk as if it catches too bad it would likely lock the drive train, cause a driver to spin on the axle or something to break.  This is not good! 

 

The way to fix this was the same method I used on the MTH Big Boys and that was to add a 5/16" Nylon washer (can be purchased from Home Depot) to each of the #1 drivers on each engine set.  (Pictured is a 1/4" washer)

 

 

Here is an example of them installed on the MTH Big Boy:

 

 

 

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01/19/2008

Connecting rod pins screwed in crooked:

I found this on a couple of engines I was trying to perfect the quartering on.  While seemingly very minor, they can increase the resistance at certain points in the revolution of the driver that can lead to the pin coming loose or cause/accentuate minor binding.  Fortunately, backing them out and re-screwing back in straight up and down can correct the problem.

 

 

 

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01/19/2008

Painting the drivers:

To get an overall better look, I painted the Mallet drivers black.  To get as precise a job as possible, I disassembled each motor block and removed each axle set and masked the surfaces I didn't want painted.  One part of this process that is very important is to mark on the bottom of each gear box the direction and location position order.  Also, it's important to draw a center line down the side of each flywheel to note it's original orientation, direction and order.  This is critical in order to maintain the quartering!

 

The paint I used was Krylon Fusion - Satin Black.

 

First, here are the socket sizes need to remove the rod screws:

 

Here are the almost completely masked drivers.

 

This is what the drivers look like when completely masked.  (Note in these photos, it documents the original method of not removing the gearboxes from the block.)

Images of the disassembled pieces of the Mallet motor block and other images:

 

Images of the just painted drivers:

 

Final end result reassembled and back on the engine:

 

 

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01/19/2008

Defective motor:

I noticed when one of my Mallets ran that the front engine set turned noticeably slower than the rear set which mean the front set was being pushed/slid around the track by the second engine set. (This was at all speeds)  After eliminating the possibility that it was out of quarter/loose drivers, crooked rod pins, motor hex shaft too far out on the end of the motor or a wiring problem, I turned my attention to the motor itself.  After a bit of testing, the motor proved to be the problem.  I ordered a replacement from Aristocraft and here is the result.  The new motor worked much smoother than the old and once installed the engine ran as it should.

 

(Right-click and save-as the video before you play and it will run smoother.)

                                              Select the version / quality you want to download:

  

 -  Video #1 - 1:45 mins 

                       -  26MB/2100kbs - 13MB/1000kbs - 2MB/150kbs

 

 -  Video #2 - 1:31 mins 

                       -  23MB/2100kbs - 11MB/1000kbs - 2MB/150kbs

 

 

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01/19/2008

Power pickup problems from some drivers: (missing power transmission strips)

On 3 axles (out of 48) I found that no power was being picked up from the driver.  The cause ended up being the power transfer strips that ran down the inside of the motor block was missing on all three axles.  Aristocraft was good enough to provide replacement strips to me.  

 

You can see in the second photo that the power transfer strip is there in the top right location, but in the other three, they are missing. (Below and the top and bottom in the gear box area on the left.)

 

 

 

 

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01/19/2008

Power pickup problems from some drivers: (power pickup ball missing on axle to ball power pickup)

On one axle I found that power was not being transferred to the engine.  After doing continuity tests and disassembling the gear box, I found the very small ball bearing that is installed on the bottom side axle hole (through the side of the gearbox) was missing.  Aristocraft did appear to keep these in stock so I had to find a third party supplier for them.  After a few hours I found a place that sold them and ordered a few.  Once replaced the axle transferred power fine. 

 

If I remember correctly, they are a 2mm ball and I ordered them from:  http://www.precisionballs.com/  I believe they were the "Standard Commercial balls" - 316 Stainless steel.

 

 

 

 

 

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05/31/2009

Recurring plastic "creeking" noise while running - (Twice per revolution of the wheels)

You may hear this on your engine and can't seem to figure out where it's coming from.   The most likely place is from the crosshead screw connection on one of the crossheads.

 

Here is the connection with the screw removed and the connector taken off.  Just lubricate this point and reassemble.

 

 

 

To help you pin point which one is making the noise, with the engine running put your finger on the screw at the center of the crosshead.  If it's making the noise you will feel the vibration in your finger tip.  If you don't feel it, try another one. 

 

 

If it's not one of the crosshead screws, another possibility could be the upper rocking point connection for the actuator arm that the crosshead moves.  I have used a file to enlarge the hole the pin fits in to allow for more play.  This location is most likely not the one causing noise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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